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View Full Version : Racetech Gold Valves review


TRXasaurus
01-02-2011, 03:53 PM
well i have always said you need to spring your bike for your weight and application. always felt the stock valve is generally sufficient unless weight is on the ends of the range of efficiency.

well i always had a good knowledge of the main valve and its function but not the detail on how the shim stack is designed and functionality. soooo santa got me a Racetech gold valve kit. this kit is for any rider since you design and build your shim stack as the Racetech online Digital Valving System sugguests. not an easy task but not too bad. based on a chart and my specific riding input i built a shim stack custom to me.

the shims are what actuallly create the valve due to its deflection and by pass flow. pretty damn cool. kit came with a video too that explains alot.

today i spent the whole morning testing on the front pit whoop row, a small track and another little track to feel the differences as i adjusted the comp and reb adjusters.

first run out it instantly felt plush so i hammered out 4th and skipped pretty good even slowing down felt comfortable.

after lightening my low speed on my low/high comp adj and lightening the rebound a bit it felt right on! i only bottomed out on a large dropping jump landing front first hard. i had been bottoming on hard roots and even smaller jump landings.

it is definitely a next step. the racetech calculations do reguire the shock is already spring for the rider and riding style. but is definitely recommended.

i can not wait for the Brooksville race for a full test :rock:

i took pics with michelles cam and new flash. i think the look better. bad thing is i forgot to keep taking pics i was so into it...


old valve..notice stamp on top that has to be ground off
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2915

working...
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2916

ground nut (kit cames with a new one)
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2917

no nut... the stack on the bottom is compression. oil is forced thru the valves ports and the shims deviate to allow oil to pass. the stack closes to the valve is low speed then see a small gap then the high speed shim stack. the top stack is rebound. here is the science...how you stack... :thumb:
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2918

here i am with computer, shim charts, shims, valves and parts. it too a micrometer to perfectly stack different diameter and different thousands thicksness in the proper order. pain in ass! they are sorted now :rock:
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2919


i forgot to take pics in the shaft with new valve and stack. now meant to be secret :devillook:

new bumpers and seals too
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2920

ready
http://www.tampabayridindirty.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=2921

Andy9933
01-02-2011, 04:01 PM
Thats your problem, you were surfing TBRD while building your shocks.:devillook::crackup:Good luck at brooksville.:thumb:

trx#9
01-02-2011, 11:38 PM
have you experimented with different oils and weight of oil yet?

wild bill
01-03-2011, 11:58 AM
:thumb: thats awesome....let me know when you get yours perfect so you can hook me up! :eek:

TRXasaurus
01-03-2011, 05:07 PM
have you experimented with different oils and weight of oil yet?

yeah and found the lighter the better. was told by a "professional" to use trans fluid :crackup::wtf:

im now using Silkolene 2.5wt

the heaver oils breakdown faster

wild bill
01-03-2011, 07:45 PM
yeah and found the lighter the better. was told by a "professional" to use trans fluid :crackup::wtf:

im now using Silkolene 2.5wt

the heaver oils breakdown faster

that makes sense,transmission fluid is tough stuff. i need you to do mine soon but i need just a little more time.